A Walk in the French Riviera: Je Suis une Star de Cinéma [On The Road: Cannes]

I can't go to a bad movie by myself. Who am I going to make sarcastic remarks to? Strangers?

Jerry Seinfeld (Seinfeld episode “The Chinese Restaurant”)

Next stop was obviously Cannes. The city is the perfect place to go as a paparazzi looking for movie stars. Lovely city, fluorescent lights, hotels, restaurants, casinos, dramatic views when you get from the west following the coast. Overall plenty to do, including wandering in La Croisette to spot the twin cupolas of the Carlton hotel, take a guided tour in the ugly but huge palais des festivals, climb the winding pedestrian roads in the old district to get to Le Suquet, pay for a swim in any of the private beaches along Le Croisette, or hunt for the murals that are around the town.

One of the murals

For diner we went to Seasens, a restaurant located in the 5th floor of the Five Seas hotel, too many fives isn’t it. Lovely hotel the view was ok, not so impacting as the hotel was hiding in a back alley. The restaurant was fully book but we got a table by the pool for finger food and cocktails. Lovely cocktails and nice food. Our highlight was the foie gras. Expect to spend €58pp.

Foie Gras, black sesame, and mango yuzu sauce

Cannes

Cotes d'Azur

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A walk in the French Riviera: A couple quick stops [On The Road: Toulon/Giens/Le Lavandou]

I want to bite into a big hunk of cheese, just bite into it like it’s an apple

George Costanza (Seinfeld episode “The Foundation”)

We kept the driving east. Our next stop was Toulon, a huge port city and hub with big cruise ships. My impression is that Toulon is a modern city that doesn’t go with the rest of Cote d’Azur, if you can avoid it and pass through without stopping you won’t miss anything.

Toulon Alley

If you do stop, there is a huge market in Cours Lafayette that is nice, we wandered around for a while. For dinner we ended in La Tortue in the port. The food was ok but not memorable, huge dishes, really good service, and pretty busy. We got some cheese and a steak top with foie gras. Expect to pay around €20pp.

Lafayette Market

Cheese George Cheese!

Steak and Foie

We left Toulon and headed to La Presqu'il de Giens and Le Lavandou. Giens is a secret gem, relax and small town, with a nice and quiet beach perfect to avoid all the hassle and chill for a while, also you can try to spot the pink flamingoes in the peninsula.

Giens

Le Lavandou is a bigger city but still quite traditional old town, we walked around the port, got a couple goat cheese and cured ham baguettes in the boulangerie, and enjoyed their Ferris Wheel that we decided to name the Lavandou Eye.

Le Lavandou

Wheel

Toulon

Cote d'Azur

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A walk in the French Riviera: Looking for not the Crème but some Wine [On The Road: Cassis/Bandol]

You are telling me that wine is better than Pepsi? No way wine is better than Pepsi

George Costanza (Seinfeld episode “The Dinner Party”)

We moved east towards Cassis for more spectacular views of Calanques, and some white and rose Cassis wine tasting. Cassis is a must, the city is lovely, you can walk it in a day, enjoy nice food, and have great local wines. 

Cassis Vieux Port

On the food corner, there are plenty options in the Vieux Port. We got to La Vieille Auberge. Nice food with good wine, in a relax place with great view of the port. The goat cheese starter was superb, and then the Dorade Royal was really nice, fresh fish, and perfectly cooked, a touch of anise that was lovely. The cost is around €40pp.

Cassis White

Goat cheese starter

Dorade

We kept driving east towards Bandol through the route des Cretes, outstanding panoramic views of the coast scenery. Finally in Bandol we did a quick stroll in the port, and in the tourist office we got leaflet with all the vineyards of the region. 

Passing Bandol

We ended in Domaine de Terrebrune for wine tasting. They opened in 1963, the vineyard extends over 30 hectares. We got a quick tour of their production process, and then did some wine tasting, really amazing, we tried 5 different wines, everything free if you buy a bottle.

Domaine de Terrebrune

The vineyard

Wine tasting time

Cassis & Bandol
Cote d'Azur

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A Walk in the French Riviera: First stop Marseille [On The Road: Marseille]

My cousin worked for Bouchard's. They used to use the bouillabaisse for a toilet.

George Costanza (Seinfeld episode “The Shoes”)

I have been planning to go to the Cote d’Azur for years. Finally, before the end of this summer I had the chance to visit it. A road trip from Marseille to Nice, no fixed itineraries, the Lonely Planet guide, and a couple friend suggestions. So my first stop was Marseille.

Vieux Port

Great city, lovely sights, good food, and decent nightlife. The highlights include a stroll in the Vieux Port, including an early morning at the fish market, get lost in the puzzles in Fort St Jean. Wander around the alleys full of art and history in Le Panier. Shop for some  authentic Savon de Marseille. For the panoramic view you need to go to Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, and don’t forget to take a road trip to Les Calanques.

Notre Dame de la Garde

Fish Market

On the food corner, you can’t miss a traditional bouillabaisse, just remember to reserve in advance to get the real deal. You can have nice Roquefort moules at La Cuisine au Berre, around €25pp. L’entrecote du Port, if you’re into steak frittes, a nice, simple family run place, won’t cost you more than €40pp.

Bouillabaisse

For breakfast go to La Caravelle, a simple petit dejuner, continental style, decent coffee, the overall cost is not more than €10pp, the view of vieux port is outstanding, make sure to get a table at the balcony.

La Caravelle

If you head to the Calanques, you have two restaurants in Sormiou. Reserve in advance so you can pass with your car, we got a table at Le Chateau, the food was superb, a nice gambas with tapenade, and a superb flan d’oursins. Only cash and expect a €50pp

Sormiou

Gambas time

Marseille

Cote d'Azur

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